Most eateries in the downtown serve very trivial set of dishes, naming them a local specialty for marketing reasons. This is because only 5% of StMdlM summertime population are local residents--while catering tourist crowd has always been much easier and more profitable.
If you have a car, for a finer dinner experience for nearly the same budgets, try restaurants inside the hotels found along the D570 road on the way to StMdlM. See Camargue#Eat for some tips on finding a good restaurant outside the town.
Alternatively, try seeking recommendations from locals living there all the year round.